As a day-to-day user of UB 24.04, I hadn’t noticed it until now, but this option borrowed from Cinnamon seems to have disappeared since version 24.10, and will do so again in UB 25.04:
Thanks David, it’s the right key, but if it works on UB 24.04, it has no effect on 24.10 or 25.04: even if it’s set to “true”, the menu entry is not displayed.
I found both the answer to your question and the solution to my request.
The key is org.nemo.dektop use-desktop-grid:
Summary : Which desktop view type to use
Description: If true, the new desktop grid view will be used by nemo-desktop, otherwise the legacy view will be used.
Its default value is “false” (“legacy” desktop grid):